Why I Shoot With Prime Lenses
There are a lot of different lens choices on the market today. How do you know what to get? Obviously there is no correct answer as every photographer is different, and shoots different subjects; For example if you are only taking pictures at your son’s soccer game you would be smart to by a zoom (70-200) as you would not have to much need for a 15mm fish eye. Before you go out an purchase a new lens I encourage you to look at prime lenses.
When photography was just starting, back when dirt was new, you were only able to use prime lenses. Prime lenses do not have the ability to zoom they are fixed at a focal length. (for example 50mm)
A lot of photographers like prime lenses as they have high quality glass, don’t get me wrong zoom lenses now can have some high quality optics, but not to long ago zoom lenses where much lower quality.
One of my favorite parts about prime lenses is its low cost to get into faster glass. (2.8); a great example of this is actually one of my favorite sub $1000 lens , It’s the Canon 100mm 2.8 Macro.
This is a great portrait lens and it doubles as an amazing macro. I use this lens at every wedding for detail shots of cake, rings, dresses. etc. The best part you can get this lens for about $500.
Another great prime lens that is very popular on the market is the Nikon 50mm 1.4. This is great as it simulates more of what you eye actually sees. so it’s a great lens to learn on, and only runs $400. If you are looking for a good learning lens you should look at the 50mm 1.8. It’s not super high quality as the glass is actually plastic, I think, But it’s a great learning tool for the $50.
Hi,
Great facts to know about prime lenses. However, my personal worry as an amateur is the concern for sharp pictures, the technical advantage that lenses with an IS (Image Stabilizer) are said to have against camera shake, where does one therefore stand if i’m right with the realization of not coming across any prime lens with an image stabilizer. I would be glad to know the way out, with so much thanks.
Hi Ernest as long as you keep your shutter speed up camera shake becomes a non issue. As a guide if you are shooting at 60mm keep your shutter above 1/60 if you are shooting at 200mm shutter should be above 1/200.
Ernest, when you have no choice but to shoot handheld with long lenses or in low light, image stabilization can really make a difference. But if maximum sharpness is your goal, the best stabilization you can use in any situation and with any lens is a good tripod with IS turned off.
You may also find that the sort of shooting situations where stabilized lenses are helpful are the sort where you’d find a zoom to be the best tool for the job anyway.
Canon and Nikon do have some stabilized primes, usually longer telephoto and macro lenses which can benefit greatly from stabilization. The Pentax system has a strong lineup of very compact primes and their DSLR bodies have stabilization built in; it works with every lens, even ancient manual focus ones. Sony and Olympus also have in-body stabilization, but the prime lens choices are more limited.
Kyle,
I don’t know what would make you think that any of Nikon’s amazing optics are plastic. That’s just plain ridiculous for a quality company like that. I love shooting with my Nikkor 35mm 1.8G (eqiv to a normal 50mm on the digital DX scale). Besides the fast glass, the bokeh is wonderfully smooth, the lens in lightweight, the autofocus is agile and accurate, and the resulting photos are breathtakingly crisp with vivid original colour. For a beginner or even pro photographer in the Nikon family, I’d highly recommend this lens which you can find online for a mere $200. Pocket change compared to most other Nikkor lenses, and still with superb optics that rival the best of the zooms. Waaaay better than the stock 18-55mm kit zooms many of the new Nikon DSLRs come with. Go get one and have some prime fun! AF-S DX 35mm f1.8G
50mm f1.8 plastic glass? Would like to see the source of that info…
I agree 50 1.8 is made out of low quality materials, just look at any website talking about it
Hi, So far so fine about prime lenses and all the good things to know. Appreciation and thanks to all reviewers, Paul, Kyle, Michael, Vitas, and Braden. The next hurdle i’d particularly need to jump, is about a general purpose prime lens for travel or walk about, where one wouldn’t like to carry the bulk of prime lenses for perhaps shooting portraiture, nature, wildlife, outdoor sports and indoor low light events (especially, where ‘foot zooming’ space and time changing lenses could be limited), The canon EF 135mm f / 2.0 L USM is one lens i’m crazy about having, but …. ??? Another round of help please! … Be it a list of the best prime lenses for the subjects mentioned above, i’ll just be glad. Ernest.
glass is “actually” plastic ?
utter rubbish.
yes I agree the 50mm 1.8 is low quality. Think of this why would they sell that for under $140 but yet the 1.4 is almost $500 and the 1.2 is $1600.
even the manufacture knows its an intro lens
I have heard before that the 50mm 1.8 the lens is plastic. I think they are saying the body of the lens is plastic. Not the lens its self?
What is the truth here?
I had a 50 mm 1.8…the casing is plastic, not the actual lens. It was a great lens for the price. I passed it along to my sister-in-law when I got my 50 mm 1.4.
The Canon 50mm 1.8 is around $100 not $50. And the casing is plastic, not the lens like Cassie said. It’s a great first lens for beginner getting a DSLR and I’d get this lens over the 18-55mm kit lens any day.
I am in 100% agreement. If I had to chose one lens forever, it would be a prime lens. The 35mm 1.8 would be the go to lens for me. I am old school, I can walk closer if I want to zoom in!
@Douglas – yes you can “zoom” with your feet gut if you put on your 35mm and get closer to an object you will not get the same looking shot as if you back up and shoot the same thing with a 200mm. The perspectives are different, completely different looking shot.
While prime lenses are great for cost and value, and the provide larger apertures for less money and are lighter in weight than big zoom lenses. You cannot replace all your lenses with one prime and say you’re done. If you want primes, great go for it, but get a range like 35, 85, 135, 200.
You missed my point. “If I had to pick one lens” it woulde be the 35mm. I chose it because it’s fast and for the DX format it is true perspective, like the old 50mm lens on the 35mm film cameras I use.
I see, that’s wasn’t how I read it you’re right.
i have just joined. cant wait to prove how goood u guys are
The 50mm the person was talking about is mostly plastic. Not the Glass but the body of the lens the optics are pretty good but there are better.